{
 "id": "3rd-gen-4runner",
 "vehicle": "3rd Gen 4Runner",
 "platform": "4runner",
 "years": "1996–2002",
 "covers": "1996 to 2002 4Runner with the 2.7L 3RZ-FE four-cylinder and the 3.4L 5VZ-FE V6, 2WD and 4WD, manual and automatic. Where a check only applies to one engine it says so.",
 "updated": "2026-10-15",
 "disclaimer": "General guidance from owner experience. Confirm torque specs, fluid capacities and procedures in the factory service manual. Brakes, steering and anything structural: if in doubt, have a qualified shop inspect it before driving.",
 "systems": [
  "Engine",
  "Cooling",
  "Starting & Charging",
  "Fuel & Ignition",
  "Emissions",
  "Drivetrain",
  "Steering & Suspension",
  "Brakes",
  "Transmission",
  "Frame & Body"
 ],
 "symptoms": [
  {
   "id": "front-end-clunk",
   "title": "Clunk, knock or loose feel in the front end over bumps",
   "system": "Steering & Suspension",
   "keywords": [
    "clunk",
    "knock",
    "front end noise",
    "ball joint",
    "lower ball joint",
    "loose steering",
    "wanders",
    "creak",
    "popping over bumps",
    "play in front wheel"
   ],
   "summary": "Front lower ball joints are the famous wear item on this generation, and certain 2001 and 2002 trucks were part of a Toyota recall for scratched lower ball joint surfaces. Check the ball joints first, then the rest of the front end.",
   "safety": "A worn lower ball joint can separate from the steering knuckle and cause loss of steering control. If you find play, stop driving the truck and fix it before further use.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Lower ball joint play",
     "how": "Jack the front end, support it on stands, and grab the tire at 6 and 12 o'clock. Rock it hard in and out while a helper watches the joint, or pry between the lower arm and knuckle. Visible movement or a torn boot means replace it.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Recall status on 2001 to 2002 trucks",
     "how": "Run the VIN through NHTSA's recall lookup or ask a Toyota dealer if the lower ball joint campaign was done. If it was done, the replacement joints are an improved part, but still inspect them on any high-mileage truck.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Sway bar links and bushings",
     "how": "Grab the sway bar end links and the bar itself and shake them. Loose links or dried-out bushings clunk over small bumps.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Upper ball joints and control arm bushings",
     "how": "With the wheel off the ground, pry on the upper arm and look for movement or cracked bushings. Replace worn arm bushings as a set rather than one at a time.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Shocks, torsion bar keys and mounts",
     "how": "Check the shocks for leaks or loose mounts and look at the torsion bar arms and cross member bolts for rust and movement. Rust at the suspension mounting points is worth a closer look on any northern truck.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#front-end-clunk"
  },
  {
   "id": "vibration-wander",
   "title": "Shimmy, vibration or steering wander at highway speed",
   "system": "Steering & Suspension",
   "keywords": [
    "vibration",
    "shimmy",
    "steering wobble",
    "wanders",
    "steering wheel shake",
    "tire balance",
    "tie rod",
    "wheel bearing",
    "alignment",
    "pulls"
   ],
   "summary": "Most shimmies come from tires, balance or worn front end parts. Do the cheap tire checks before replacing steering parts.",
   "safety": "Loose steering parts are a safety issue. Do not drive on tie rod ends or ball joints that show play.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Tire condition and balance",
     "how": "Look for bulges, flat spots and uneven wear, then have the wheels spin balanced. Cupped tires or a bent wheel can feel like a worn suspension.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Tire pressure and rotation",
     "how": "Set all four tires to the placard pressure and check for a tire that is out of round. Rotating the tires front to back can move the vibration and tell you which end it is in.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Tie rod ends and idler arm",
     "how": "With the wheels off the ground, push and pull each wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. Any play here points to tie rod ends, the idler arm or the steering rack or box.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Wheel bearings",
     "how": "Grab the tire at 12 and 6 and rock it, then spin it by hand and listen for a growl. On 4WD trucks the front hub also needs correct lock and bearing preload.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Alignment",
     "how": "After any ball joint or tie rod work, get a four wheel alignment. A truck with a lifted or sagging front end can also pull or wander until the torsion bars are reset.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#vibration-wander"
  },
  {
   "id": "frame-and-body-rust",
   "title": "Frame rust, rotten rocker panels or rusty underbody",
   "system": "Frame & Body",
   "keywords": [
    "frame rust",
    "rust",
    "rotted frame",
    "rocker panel",
    "rust holes",
    "pinch weld",
    "rear wheel arch",
    "spare tire carrier",
    "underbody",
    "sunroof drain"
   ],
   "summary": "Trucks from salt states can have serious frame and body rust. The rockers, rear wheel arches and the areas around the suspension mounts are the usual trouble spots, and clogged sunroof drains can feed rocker rust.",
   "safety": "A weak frame or rusted suspension mounts can fail without warning. Have anything that looks soft or flaky inspected by a shop before towing or off-road use.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Frame rails by tapping",
     "how": "Tap along both rails with a hammer, especially near the rear cross members, spare tire carrier and suspension mounts. A solid ring is fine. A dull thud, flaking or a hammer that goes through means a repair is needed.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Rocker panels and pinch welds",
     "how": "Look at the underside of the rockers and the pinch weld seams for bubbling paint, holes or sagging. Press gently with a screwdriver handle at suspect spots.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Rear wheel arches",
     "how": "Feel the inside lip of the rear arches for rough scale or holes. Mud trapped behind the plastic liners hides rust until it is advanced.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Sunroof drains",
     "how": "If the truck has a sunroof, pour a little water in the tray and confirm it runs out below the doors. A clogged drain can soak the rocker cavity from the inside.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Rust prevention and repair",
     "how": "Clean loose scale, then treat with an oil or wax based frame coating or cavity wax each year. Structural repair of boxed sections is shop work.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#frame-and-body-rust"
  },
  {
   "id": "overheating",
   "title": "Engine overheating or temperature gauge climbing",
   "system": "Cooling",
   "keywords": [
    "overheating",
    "overheat",
    "temp gauge high",
    "coolant loss",
    "radiator",
    "thermostat",
    "water pump",
    "fan clutch",
    "steam",
    "boiling over"
   ],
   "summary": "On the 5VZ-FE the water pump is driven by the timing belt, so a weeping pump and an aging belt often go together. Start with coolant level, the radiator and the fan before pulling the front of the engine apart.",
   "safety": "Never open the radiator cap or coolant reservoir on a hot engine. Let it cool fully first.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Coolant level and condition",
     "how": "Check the radiator and reservoir cold. Low coolant means find the leak. Rusty or oily coolant points to long neglect or an internal leak.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Radiator, hoses and cap",
     "how": "Look for crusty residue at the radiator seams and hoses, and squeeze the hoses when cool for soft or swollen spots. Replace a weak cap, which is cheap and often overlooked.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fan clutch and fan",
     "how": "With the engine cold, spin the fan by hand. It should offer some resistance and not free spin for long. A fan clutch that does not lock up when hot lets the engine overheat in traffic.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Water pump on the 5VZ-FE",
     "how": "Look for coolant trails or residue at the weep hole near the front of the engine, under the timing belt covers. If the belt is due, replace the pump, thermostat and belt together.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Thermostat and block test",
     "how": "A stuck thermostat is cheap to replace. If the truck keeps losing coolant with no leak, run a chemical block test for combustion gases in the coolant.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6: Full Specs, Common Issues & TRD Supercharger",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/the-legendary-toyota-5vz-fe-engine-powering-adventures-since-the-90s/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#overheating"
  },
  {
   "id": "milky-transmission-fluid",
   "title": "Pink or milky transmission fluid, or coolant in the transmission",
   "system": "Transmission",
   "keywords": [
    "milky transmission fluid",
    "pink fluid",
    "strawberry milkshake",
    "coolant in transmission",
    "radiator cooler leak",
    "transmission cooler",
    "atf contaminated",
    "slipping"
   ],
   "summary": "On automatic 4Runners from this era, the transmission cooler inside the radiator can leak and mix coolant with the fluid. Catch it early because coolant in the transmission wrecks clutch material.",
   "safety": "Do not keep driving with coolant mixed into the transmission fluid. Tow it if it is pink or foamy.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Dipstick check",
     "how": "Pull the dipstick with the engine warm and look for pink, milky or foamy fluid. Also check the radiator coolant for an oily film.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Pressure test the cooler",
     "how": "A shop can pressure test the radiator transmission cooler. Many owners just replace the radiator and cooler line seals at the same time.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Radiator replacement",
     "how": "If the radiator cooler is the source, replace the radiator and flush the transmission cooler lines. Do not reuse old hoses that are cracked.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Transmission flush and inspect",
     "how": "After the leak is fixed, the transmission needs a full fluid exchange and a look at shift quality. Slipping or burnt smell afterward means a rebuild may be needed.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#milky-transmission-fluid"
  },
  {
   "id": "timing-belt-5vz",
   "title": "5VZ-FE timing belt service: when is it due and how do I tell?",
   "system": "Engine",
   "keywords": [
    "timing belt",
    "5vz-fe",
    "water pump",
    "belt interval",
    "ticking",
    "slapping",
    "belt noise",
    "90000 miles",
    "tensioner",
    "timing belt replacement"
   ],
   "summary": "The 3.4L 5VZ-FE uses a timing belt, not a chain. The 2.7L 3RZ-FE uses a chain. Treat belt service as scheduled maintenance and replace the water pump, idlers and tensioner at the same time.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Confirm the engine",
     "how": "Check the VIN or the valve cover. The V6 is the 5VZ-FE and has a belt. The four-cylinder 3RZ-FE has a chain, so there is no belt to replace.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Service records",
     "how": "Look for a receipt that shows belt, tensioner, idlers and water pump. Toyota's interval is around 90,000 miles in later years. If there is no proof, assume it is due.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Cover leaks and belt inspection",
     "how": "Look at the front of the engine for oil from the cam or crank seals. Oil on the belt shortens its life, so fix the leak when you do the belt.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Replace as a kit",
     "how": "Do the belt, water pump, tensioner, idler pulleys and front seals together. It is a lot of labor, so doing it all at once saves money.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6: Full Specs, Common Issues & TRD Supercharger",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/the-legendary-toyota-5vz-fe-engine-powering-adventures-since-the-90s/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#timing-belt-5vz"
  },
  {
   "id": "no-crank",
   "title": "Turn the key: click or nothing, engine won't crank",
   "system": "Starting & Charging",
   "keywords": [
    "no crank",
    "click",
    "won't start",
    "wont start",
    "starter",
    "dead battery",
    "solenoid",
    "neutral safety switch",
    "clicking noise"
   ],
   "summary": "Rule out the battery, terminals and grounds first, because those are free or cheap. Then move to the starter and the neutral safety switch.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Battery voltage",
     "how": "Resting voltage should be about 12.4 V or more. Under 12 V, charge and load-test the battery before chasing anything else.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Terminals and grounds",
     "how": "Clean and tighten both battery terminals, the engine-to-body ground and the starter cable. Corrosion can mimic a dead battery.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Shift position on automatics",
     "how": "Try starting in Neutral. A worn neutral safety switch can block cranking in Park.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Clutch switch on manuals",
     "how": "Press the clutch fully and listen for the start relay. A failed clutch start switch will stop the starter from engaging.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Starter",
     "how": "A single click with a good battery usually means a worn starter solenoid or starter. Bench test or replace it.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#no-crank"
  },
  {
   "id": "crank-no-start",
   "title": "Engine cranks but won't start",
   "system": "Fuel & Ignition",
   "keywords": [
    "cranks but won't start",
    "crank no start",
    "no spark",
    "no fuel",
    "fuel pump",
    "distributor",
    "igniter",
    "crank sensor",
    "circuit opening relay",
    "wont start"
   ],
   "summary": "It needs fuel, spark and air at the right time. Check for spark and listen for the fuel pump before buying parts.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Fuel pump prime",
     "how": "Turn the key to on and listen at the tank for the pump to run for a couple of seconds. No sound means check the fuse and the circuit opening relay, then the pump.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Spark test",
     "how": "Use a spark tester on a plug wire. No spark on any cylinder points to the igniter, ignition coil, distributor pickup or crank sensor.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fuel pressure",
     "how": "Connect a gauge to the fuel rail test port. Low pressure with a running pump points to a clogged filter or a weak pump.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Distributor and wires",
     "how": "Pull the cap and look for moisture, carbon tracking or a cracked rotor. Old plug wires can leak spark and cause a no start in damp weather.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Read codes",
     "how": "A crank sensor or fuel related code narrows it down quickly. Use a scan tool or jump the diagnostic connector to read flash codes.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#crank-no-start"
  },
  {
   "id": "rough-idle-surge",
   "title": "Rough idle, surging, stalling or hesitation",
   "system": "Fuel & Ignition",
   "keywords": [
    "rough idle",
    "surging",
    "stalling",
    "hesitation",
    "misfire",
    "p0300",
    "idle air control",
    "p0505",
    "p0506",
    "p0507",
    "vacuum leak"
   ],
   "summary": "On the 5VZ-FE a carbon fouled idle air control valve and throttle body is a common cause of surging and stalling. Also check vacuum lines and old ignition parts.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Throttle body and idle air control",
     "how": "Remove the intake tube and clean the throttle body and idle air control valve with throttle body cleaner. Surging at idle or stalling when the A/C kicks on is the classic sign.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Vacuum leaks",
     "how": "Inspect the intake hoses, PCV hose and brake booster line for cracks. A leak can also set a lean code.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Plugs, wires and distributor cap",
     "how": "Old plugs and cracked wires cause a misfire under load. Replace them with the correct heat range as a set.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Mass air flow sensor",
     "how": "Clean the sensor element with MAF cleaner only. Do not touch the wire with anything.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "EGR and PCV",
     "how": "A clogged EGR passage or stuck PCV valve can roughen the idle. Clean or replace the valve.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#rough-idle-surge"
  },
  {
   "id": "check-engine-codes",
   "title": "Check engine light with a common code",
   "system": "Emissions",
   "keywords": [
    "check engine light",
    "cel",
    "p0401",
    "p0325",
    "p0330",
    "p0420",
    "p0505",
    "knock sensor",
    "egr",
    "catalytic converter",
    "p0171"
   ],
   "summary": "The common ones on the 5VZ-FE are EGR flow (P0401), knock sensor circuit (P0325 and P0330), idle control and catalyst efficiency. Read the code before replacing anything.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Read and write down codes",
     "how": "Use a scan tool. Note the code and any freeze frame data, then clear it and see how fast it returns.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "P0401 EGR flow",
     "how": "Carbon often clogs the EGR passages in the intake. Clean the passages and check the EGR valve and vacuum modulator before replacing parts.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "P0325 and P0330 knock sensor",
     "how": "On the 5VZ-FE the sensors sit under the intake manifold and the wiring can go brittle. Inspect the harness first and use quality sensors if replacing.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "P0420 catalyst efficiency",
     "how": "Check for exhaust leaks ahead of the rear oxygen sensor and test the sensors before condemning the catalytic converter.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Gas cap and evap",
     "how": "Make sure the cap clicks tight and the seal is not cracked. This is a cheap fix for evap codes.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#check-engine-codes"
  },
  {
   "id": "4wd-wont-engage",
   "title": "4WD won't engage or front axle seems stuck",
   "system": "Drivetrain",
   "keywords": [
    "4wd not working",
    "4wd won't engage",
    "four wheel drive",
    "axle disconnect",
    "add actuator",
    "vacuum actuator",
    "transfer case",
    "4 low",
    "front axle"
   ],
   "summary": "Many 4WD trucks use a front axle disconnect that is vacuum operated. Perished vacuum hoses, a bad switching valve or a sticky actuator are the cheapest things to rule out.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Vacuum hoses to the actuator",
     "how": "Follow the lines from the vacuum switching valve to the front differential actuator. Look for cracks, pinched spots or loose connections.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Vacuum switching valve",
     "how": "Check that it passes vacuum when the 4WD is selected. A stuck valve will prevent engagement.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Front axle disconnect actuator",
     "how": "Inspect for rust and a stuck shaft. Cleaning and lubing may free it, or the actuator may need replacement.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Transfer case shift and fluid",
     "how": "Check the fluid level and the linkage. A tight or stiff shift may be a dry linkage or low oil.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Test drive in 4 high on loose ground",
     "how": "Feel for the front axle engaging. Binding on dry pavement is normal, so test on dirt or gravel.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#4wd-wont-engage"
  },
  {
   "id": "transmission-shifting",
   "title": "Harsh shifts, slipping, flare or no overdrive",
   "system": "Transmission",
   "keywords": [
    "transmission slipping",
    "harsh shift",
    "hard shift",
    "no overdrive",
    "flare",
    "delayed engagement",
    "shift flare",
    "atf",
    "overdrive off light",
    "transmission problem"
   ],
   "summary": "Start with fluid level and condition. Then look at electrical and mechanical causes before assuming the transmission is toast.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Fluid level and color",
     "how": "Check the level hot with the engine running in Park. Burnt smell or dark fluid means service or a deeper issue.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Drain and fill",
     "how": "A drain and fill with the correct Toyota fluid can improve shift quality on a truck with old fluid. Avoid a high pressure flush on a high mileage transmission with no history.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Throttle position and speed sensors",
     "how": "A failing throttle position sensor or speed sensor can cause erratic shifts. Check for codes.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Overdrive off light flashing",
     "how": "A flashing light usually means a stored transmission code. Read it with a scan tool or flash codes.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Radiator cooler leak",
     "how": "If the fluid looks milky, see the coolant in the transmission symptom. Stop driving it until fixed.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#transmission-shifting"
  },
  {
   "id": "brakes-pull-soft",
   "title": "Brakes pull to one side, squeal, pulsate or pedal feels soft",
   "system": "Brakes",
   "keywords": [
    "brakes pull",
    "brake pulsation",
    "soft pedal",
    "squeal",
    "grinding",
    "sticking caliper",
    "brake line",
    "warped rotor",
    "spongy pedal",
    "abs light"
   ],
   "summary": "Sticking calipers and rusty brake lines are the usual problems on aging trucks. Inspect the whole system before replacing pads alone.",
   "safety": "Brakes are a safety system. If the pedal is soft or goes to the floor, do not drive the truck.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Pads and rotors",
     "how": "Pull the wheels and look at pad thickness and wear pattern. Uneven wear side to side points to a sticking caliper or slide pins.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Caliper slide pins and pistons",
     "how": "Clean and lubricate the slide pins with brake grease. Check that the pistons move freely and the boots are not torn.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Brake hoses and steel lines",
     "how": "Inspect the rubber hoses for cracks and bulges and the steel lines for rust, especially on trucks from salt states.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Fluid and bleed",
     "how": "Old, dark fluid causes a soft pedal. Bleed the system and flush with fresh DOT 3 fluid.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Master cylinder and booster",
     "how": "A pedal that slowly sinks points to the master cylinder. A hard pedal with a hissing sound points to the booster or its vacuum line.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#brakes-pull-soft"
  },
  {
   "id": "oil-leak",
   "title": "Oil leak or oil smell, drips on the ground",
   "system": "Engine",
   "keywords": [
    "oil leak",
    "oil drip",
    "valve cover gasket",
    "burning oil smell",
    "oil pan",
    "rear main seal",
    "distributor o-ring",
    "oil on exhaust",
    "leaking oil"
   ],
   "summary": "Valve cover gaskets are the most common oil leak on both engines. Clean the engine and find the actual source before replacing seals.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Clean and trace",
     "how": "Degrease the engine, drive a short distance and look for fresh oil. Wetness at the top points to valve covers, and wetness lower points to the oil pan or rear seals.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Valve cover gaskets",
     "how": "Look for oil at the edges of the valve covers and in the spark plug tubes. Replace the gaskets and tube seals as a set.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Oil pan and drain plug",
     "how": "Check the pan gasket and the drain plug washer. A fresh crush washer is cheap.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Cam, crank and distributor seals",
     "how": "Oil at the front of the engine points to the cam or crank seals. Deal with them at the timing belt service on the V6.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Rear main seal and transmission",
     "how": "Oil between the engine and transmission may be the rear main seal or a transmission leak. Check the source carefully before committing to the labor.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#oil-leak"
  },
  {
   "id": "driveline-noise",
   "title": "Clunk, growl or vibration from the driveline",
   "system": "Drivetrain",
   "keywords": [
    "driveshaft",
    "u-joint",
    "clunk when shifting",
    "differential noise",
    "rear diff whine",
    "pinion seal",
    "diff growl",
    "vibration under load",
    "cv axle",
    "wheel bearing noise"
   ],
   "summary": "Worn u-joints and dry slip yokes are the cheap suspects. A whine or growl that changes with speed points to bearings or a differential.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "U-joints and slip yoke",
     "how": "Grab the driveshaft and twist it by hand, looking for play at each joint. Grease the slip yoke if it has a fitting and replace any rusty joint.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Wheel bearings",
     "how": "Jack the truck and spin each wheel by hand. A growl or roughness points to the bearing.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Front CV axles on 4WD",
     "how": "A clicking noise while turning with the wheels cranked over points to a worn CV joint. Check for torn boots and flung grease.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Differential fluid and leaks",
     "how": "Check the fluid level in the front and rear differentials and look for pinion seal leaks. Low or burnt fluid explains a whine.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Pinion and carrier bearings",
     "how": "A whine on drive or coast that changes with throttle usually means worn gears or bearings. This is a shop level diagnosis and repair.",
     "difficulty": "hard",
     "cost": "$$$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [
    {
     "title": "Toyota Regear Chart: Tire Size vs Gear Ratio vs RPM",
     "url": "https://toyotadata.com/guides/toyota-regear-chart-tire-size-gear-ratio-rpm/"
    }
   ],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#driveline-noise"
  },
  {
   "id": "charging-battery-warning",
   "title": "Battery light on, dim lights or battery keeps dying",
   "system": "Starting & Charging",
   "keywords": [
    "battery light",
    "charging system",
    "alternator",
    "dead battery",
    "dim headlights",
    "voltage low",
    "parasitic drain",
    "battery drain",
    "alternator belt"
   ],
   "summary": "Check the battery and belt first, then the alternator output. A slow drain from an accessory can also kill a good battery overnight.",
   "checks": [
    {
     "what": "Battery test",
     "how": "Have the battery load tested. A battery that won't hold a charge is the most common cause of a dead truck.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Belt and tension",
     "how": "Check the serpentine belt for glazing, cracks and slack. A slipping belt means low charging output.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Alternator output",
     "how": "With the engine running, battery voltage should be about 13.5 to 14.7 V. Much lower points to the alternator or its wiring.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Connections and grounds",
     "how": "Clean the alternator plug, battery terminals and engine ground. A loose connection can cause a charging light.",
     "difficulty": "easy",
     "cost": "$"
    },
    {
     "what": "Parasitic drain",
     "how": "Put a meter in series with the battery after the truck sleeps for a while. Pull fuses one at a time to find the circuit drawing power.",
     "difficulty": "medium",
     "cost": "$"
    }
   ],
   "guides": [],
   "url": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/#charging-battery-warning"
  }
 ],
 "source": "https://toyotadata.com/troubleshooter/3rd-gen-4runner/",
 "usage": "Checks are ordered: run them top to bottom. difficulty is easy|medium|hard, cost is $ (under ~$50) to $$$ (shop-level job)."
}